Paradise Found
Frolic with the ghost of Charlie Chaplin in this cloudless family wonderland
Despite the roadside trashnados, world famous traffic hellscapes and everything occasionally being on fire, living in Los Angeles is generally sunny and awash with wide eyed tourists, frolicking dolphins & the occasional glimpse of DiCaprio pootling down Abbot Kinney in his Ferrari (according to some teens I know, anyway…) But even residents of this Disneyland need a change of scene sometimes. A mere 90 minute (unless you leave on a Friday after school holiday weekend like we foolishly did) wind through the mountain roads of Angeles National Forest brings you to Paradise Springs, the name a perfect match for this once Hollywood debauchery outpost now family camp laze wonderland. Paradise Springs was named thus by Gloria Swanson, who partied here in the 20s and 30s when it was a getaway for Hollywood’s most glam, with a ballroom, moonshine on tap, Charlie Chaplin’s many mistresses and gossip galore. These days it’s more cookout than makeout, though you can still channel starlets by the very same swimming pool.
The camp itself feels like an oasis, all babbling brooks and streams once almost bought up by corporate supervillain Nestle for their spectacular spring water. Now they feed all the Huttopia taps and showers and taste divine, as well as providing gorgeous soundscape and a great adventure hike down the river. We stayed in grand safari tents in the Red Rocks area of camp, a short walk to the main lodge where coffee, crepes, croissants and croque moisseurs are served up fresh, as well as ice lollies and, in the evening, home made pizzas along with other family friendly fare. Our canvas domain was very comfortable with proper beds - a queen and bunks, the bottom of which was a double, fluffy duvets and pillows and extra blankets galore. Solar power gave us a fan and outlets for phone charging (blissfully there's no cell service, though you can sneak onto some very basic wifi down by the lodge) and an immense cooler was plenty storage for food. All you need for eating and for cooking on the big outside bbq & gas hob is provided, as are towels for the showers which are stocked with shampoos etc. These were immaculate and a short walk away, alongside the equally clean toilets, sinks for washing up and coolers for easy ice block exchange.
Days we started with breakfast at the tent - I like a fried up sourdough or bring pancake batter in a jar for showing off, topped with a can of whipped cream and some berries - after which the children vanished. Aged 4-14 they rampaged down to the lodge which is stocked with foosball, petanque, multiple games, as well as calmly spaced out activities you can opt into - kickball, animal sanctuary visits, craft activities, yoga and guided hiking, to name a few. We lazed sipping rose (bring your own - no bar here) and sunned ourselves by the immense icy pool. Offsite there’s a little river to hike down, drenched in blossoms and sunshine and not a soul in site. Nobody was on a screen, and everyone was glad. Evenings we preferred to cook back up at the tents, games of cards, kids geared up in head torches roaming the hills as bear bait. One eve there was sweet live music down at the lodge which was a fun change. Another there were s’mores for all provided at the huge communal fire pit, a merry chaos of children, marshmallows and sugar rush glee under the stars.
From the tasteful attention to detail, to the amenities, to the weather I couldn’t fault this trip. Huttopia is a French company with sites all over Europe, and a few now open in North America. The mostly French staff and hands-off vibe was so refreshing I felt like I was back in Europe. We booked Huttopia last minute for three nights (+ a dog) at around 800$ after tax, not exactly cheap for glorified camping but once you throw in all the perks it felt fairly luxurious. With more sites open in wine country and Catalina we are already plotting another dip in the Huttopia special sauce.
Book yourself this trip here
Read more about the hedonistic history of Paradise Springs here
Going camping, glamping, or weekending away with troupes of small people to feed? Pre-mix a batch of Alison Roman’s perfect buttermilk pancakes, recipe here, and lug with in a jar or bottle you can easily pour into a skillet on arrival.
Packing list
DO lots of moisture heavy suncream, head torches for late night strolls to the loos or beyond, an easy to transport wine-shaped cooler, easy drinking wine to fill it with, pre-prepared feasts like homemade bolognese to reheat for group dinners, soccer or volleyballs to kick & throw on the grassy fields, yoga gear, a decent sunhat, a map of the (actual) stars, Hollywood Babylon by Kenneth Anger to delve into the gossip of the ghosts you’re mingling amongst. Dress your children as though they’ll be rolling in dust or driving wagons through dust for a large portion of the day, which they will….
DON’T any shoe that isn’t outdoorsy, anything that needs to remain frozen, jewellery, screens, wifi-dependent activities.
Wishes
Escape…with your family!
We stayed at the enchanting super central Broadwick Hotel in London over Christmas, apparently too early for this magical family offering. Wizards in Residence combines the essentialish experience of wand making with both parental champagne and 50% off a second room. It sounds more confounding than it is….
Escape…from your family!
If you’ve a spare 10k and a taste for adventure, let me live vicariously through you as you embark on a major dream journey with David Prior to discover Horseback Adventures & Nomadic Traditions in Mongolia, August 19-28
Indulge your inner forager with a stay at the infinitely magical living art project that is Salmon Creek Farms. For just two weeks in May you can book to stay in one of their beautiful hand crafted cabins nestled in the Mendocino coastal redwoods, and engage in a bit of communal mealtime, forest bathing, intentional creation and garden tending.